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The Alhambra and the Moors in Spain
Feb 7th
ALHAMBRA
Some years ago, I was commissioned to write an article which ended up entitled ‘What did the Moors do for us?’. This was, needless to say, a ‘take’ on the famous scene in ‘The Life of Brian’ where the same question was asked about the Romans.
Before I started my research my answer to ‘What did the Moors do for us’ would have been ‘precious little’, However, by the time I started writing I was more than persuaded that the Moors in Spain had provided to both Spain (and Europe as a whole) far more than they had ever taken. Indeed, the Moors in Spain could be said to have ignited the reformation in Europe – which dragged us Europeans out of the, appropriately named, Dark Ages.
But what, you may ask, has this to do with the Alhambra?
Well – just about everything!
In fact, if you go the Alhambra, I would maintain that having some idea of the overall impact of the Moors on the culture of Spain is vital, if you are to really enjoy this quite fabulous palace. That is not to say that you cannot wander around the Alhambra in historical ignorance and not thoroughly enjoy it.
Indeed, you would have to be completely insensitive not to delight in seeing the Alhambra, its fabulous gardens, gorgeous rooms and delicate decorations. The Moors in Spain may have left it (very unwillingly!) over five hundred years ago in, 1492, but it still retains its sparkle and breathtaking beauty.
But, what makes the Alhambra so exceptional is that, as a palace, it was started in in 1238 with its Moorish elements completed around 1450.
So what?
Well, at the same time in Europe, there was nothing like the Alhambra in terms of its delicacy of design. By the 13th Century, we had lost much of the sophisticated building knowledge that had been brought to us by the Greeks and Romans and we had retreated to far more basic constructions. The same was largely true of our irrigation, healthcare (virtually non-existent) and, of course, daily life. By comparison, Cordoba in the 10th century had a library containing some 400,000 books and fifty hospitals (with running water)! The Moors in Spain were, literally, hundreds of years ahead of Christian Europe intellectually, culturally and architectually.
So, what is so wonderful to me about the Alhambra is that it represents the best of the Moors in Spain. Indeed, it has been described as the ‘fairy palace of the Moors’ by the writer Richard Ford. Just look at the decoration, the beauty of the way the palace and fortress has been laid out, the supreme delicacy of the stonework, the extraordinary symmetery of the tiling and glorious mosaics.
Incredible!
Of course, like virtualy anything of age the Alhambra has been added to and modified over the years. It also suffered terribly from neglect. However, to Spain’s credit the Alhambra is now is stunning condition and you would have to be hard hearted indeed, not to be seduced by it – even if the inevitable thousands of tourists there can rather spoil its tranquility!
On a more prosaic level, you can have great fun at the Alhambra trying to spot the deliberate mistakes that exist within this marvellous Palace and its many buildings. The Moors believed that only Allah could make things perfectly – so they ensured that there was always a deliberate error built into their work.
So, for example, within the stupendous symmetry of a room full of exquisite tiling there will be a flaw. But where is it? Can you (or your children) find it? It is a lot harder than you think – but looking for the falwas is worthwhile. It keeps children any happy and allows you to really take time out to marvel at the stunning workmanship!
So, is the Alhambra really worth visiting?
It is.
In fact, the Alhambra is unmissable – if you want to see great art and a fabulous palace with the most extraordinarily beautiful ambience. It is one of the wonders of Europe, a ‘must-see’ and an integral part of the culture of Spain and our own world heritage…
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Horse riding in Spain
Jan 24th
CLASSIC ANDALUSIAN
Of course, one of the great things about Spain is its climate and, along with that, the ease with which you can do outdoor activities pretty much throughout the year. One activity that is well worth taking advantage of is horse riding which takes many different forms in Spain, depending upon what you want. Certainly, there is no shortage of horse riding in Spain as the Spanish love their horses and stables are common to all areas of the country.
Needless to say, Spain is famous for its Spanish school of riding, which is a highly formalised dressage. This is done on specially trained horses and is not for the untrained rider nor appropriate for a holiday hack. However, if you ride well then you may wish to go to some stables and try your hand – although you will have to demonstrate your skills before you will be allowed on one of these horses.
The Spanish school of horse riding is definitely specialised and well worth watching because it so different from what we know in Northern Europe or the States. The finest horses are usually Andalusians or Fresians and they are highly trained. Indeed, go to an exhibition or demonstration of riding in Spain and you will be awed by seeing horses that dance and move in ways that you may never have thought possible. Sometimes this is accompanied by Flamenco dancers who become an intricate part of an act showing supreme horsemanship.
Hacking is a popular form of riding in Spain and invariably you will find stables either close to you (even within the interior of the country) or advertisments announcing their presence reasonably locally.
During the winter it is often possible to ride on the beaches of Spain. This, of course, is glorious and allows you (if you are a good rider) to experience the true joy of a long and safe gallop (in wonderful sunshine!) along the sea’s edge. Unfortunately, this is not allowed during the tourist season – for obvious reasons!
The cost of horse riding in Spain varies according to the area and what you want. However, in my experience, you can normally get an hour’s lesson or hack for around 20 Euros an hour. Usually, a riding hat is de rigeur and offered but this is occasionally not the case and many Spaniards ride without one. My advice would be to refuse to ride unless you are supplied with a hat – and one that fits correctly. Equally, always make sure that you are accompanied by an instructor. Even as an experienced rider this is essential – at least until you know the area and horses.
Interestingly, finding somewhere to horse jump in Spain can be somewhat more problematic. So, if you are coming to Spain to spend your time primarily horse jumping then it is worth always checking to see that the stables you intend using do jumping and have the horses and equipment to make this possible. Many do not and their finest horses (and what they concentrate upon) is based around the formalised Spanish school of riding.
To illustrate this point, my daughter rides regularly at a terrific stables near Gandia. Called Los Robles this stables has some 150 horses and ponies, many of magnificent quality, together with three picaderoes (exercise rings) including one which is covered. However, they only have half a dozen horses that jump – including a fabulous Hanoverian/Thoroughbred (which she rides).
Finally, one of the attractive things about riding in Spain is that during the summer it is usually done early in the morning or very late in the afternoon due to the high temperatures. This means that you do not have to compromise your day at the beach…
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