ALHAMBRA

ALHAMBRA

Some years ago, I was commissioned to write an article which ended up entitled ‘What did the Moors do for us?’.  This was, needless to say, a ‘take’ on the famous scene in ‘The Life of Brian’ where the same question was asked about the Romans.

Before I started my research my answer to ‘What did the Moors do for us’ would have been ‘precious little’,  However, by the time I started writing I was more than persuaded that the Moors in Spain had provided to both Spain (and Europe as a whole) far more than they had ever taken.  Indeed, the Moors in Spain could be said to have ignited the reformation in Europe – which dragged us Europeans out of the, appropriately named, Dark Ages.

But what, you may ask, has this to do with the Alhambra?

Well – just about everything!

In fact, if you go the Alhambra, I would maintain that having some idea of the overall impact of the Moors on the culture of Spain is vital, if you are to really enjoy this quite fabulous palace.   That is not to say that you cannot wander around the Alhambra in historical ignorance and not thoroughly enjoy it.

Indeed, you would have to be completely insensitive not to delight in seeing the Alhambra, its fabulous gardens, gorgeous rooms and delicate decorations. The Moors in Spain may have left it (very unwillingly!) over five hundred years ago in, 1492, but it still retains its sparkle and breathtaking beauty.

But, what makes the Alhambra so exceptional is that, as a palace, it was started in in 1238 with its Moorish elements completed around 1450.

So what?

Well, at the same time in Europe, there was nothing like the Alhambra in terms of its delicacy of design.  By the 13th Century, we had lost much of the sophisticated building knowledge that had been brought to us by the Greeks and Romans and we had retreated to far more basic constructions.  The same was largely true of our irrigation, healthcare (virtually non-existent) and, of course, daily life.  By comparison, Cordoba in the 10th century had a library containing some 400,000 books and fifty hospitals (with running water)!  The Moors in Spain were, literally, hundreds of years ahead of Christian Europe intellectually, culturally and architectually.

So, what is so wonderful to me about the Alhambra is that it represents the best of the Moors in Spain.  Indeed, it has been  described as the ‘fairy palace of the Moors’ by the writer Richard Ford.  Just look at the decoration, the beauty of the way the palace and fortress has been laid out, the supreme delicacy of the stonework, the extraordinary symmetery of the tiling and glorious mosaics.

Incredible!

Of course, like virtualy anything of age the Alhambra has been added to and modified over the years.  It also suffered terribly from neglect.  However, to Spain’s credit the Alhambra is now is stunning condition and you would have to be hard hearted indeed, not to be seduced by it – even if the inevitable thousands of tourists there can rather spoil its tranquility!

On a more prosaic level, you can have great fun at the Alhambra trying to spot the deliberate mistakes that exist within this marvellous Palace and its many buildings.  The Moors believed that only Allah could make things perfectly – so they ensured that there was always a deliberate error built into their work.

So, for example, within the stupendous symmetry of a room full of exquisite tiling there will be a flaw.  But where is it?  Can you (or your children) find it?  It is a lot harder than you think – but looking for the falwas is worthwhile.  It keeps children any happy and allows you to really take time out to marvel at the stunning workmanship!

So, is the Alhambra really worth visiting?

It is.

In fact, the Alhambra is unmissable – if you want to see great art and a fabulous palace with the most extraordinarily beautiful ambience.  It is one of the wonders of Europe, a ‘must-see’ and an integral part of the culture of Spain and our own world heritage…

RELEVANT INFO:

What did the Moors do for us?

Big Bang – the birth of Modern Spain

The Borgias – either Caesar or nothing

All the King’s men

Where to stay:

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